Thanksgiving Luau Memories in Baja

Thanksgiving Luau Memories in Baja

This is a true story about an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime Thanksgiving that I was fortunate enough to experience in 1995, down in Baja California, Mexico. I know this tale doesn’t really fit in with the scope of our White Trash Cooking blog – but who cares? I want to share my tale with everyone else and this is the only way I know how to share it!

My next door neighbors, Steve and Linda Paliska owned a house on a cliff in an enclosed, gringo enclave called Las Gaviotas - just south of Rosarito Beach, which is about an hour drive south of San Diego/Tijuana, along the Pacific coast. It was a beautiful, rugged place that still had authentic Mexican charm and gorgeous beaches. Steve and Linda invited my family to come down for Thanksgiving in 1995 and we hesitantly said yes. We weren’t real comfortable with going out of the country with young kids, especially Mexico, but Steve assured me that all would be fine. He told us to arrive a couple of days before Thanksgiving so that we could see the area and help with preparations – and so we did just that.

Steve’s brother, Paul and his family were already there when we arrived. Steve showed us around his house and the enclave. The house sat on top of a 100 foot cliff, with spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean, and in the distance, the island of San Clemente. There was a long, zig-zagging staircase that dropped down to the beach below. The first night we were there, we all climbed down the stairs to the beach and made a huge bonfire. On the beach were thousands and thousands of black and gray, water-sculpted smooth rocks – about the size of a large, russet potato. We talked about our plans for Thanksgiving and it was all agreed that we were going to have a traditional turkey feast with all the trimmings. Steve had bought a big, 25 lb turkey to cook. It was a beautiful night with a full moon and we all drank and partied late into the evening.

I got up early the next morning and after grabbing a cup of coffee, I began looking through Steve’s large collection of books in the living room. I soon found an old book from the 1940’s, which was a short story on how to go about doing a Hawaiian Luau. Steve and Paul got up shortly after me and joined me in the living room. I was fascinated by the book, which was very simple and with exact step-by-step instructions on what was required to cook a pig, Hawaiian-style. I showed the book to Steve and he said that he had acquired it at a neighbor’s yard sale years before. He had never even read it.

On this particular morning (the day before Thanksgiving), I guess Steve and Paul woke up ready to start partying early because the next thing you know, they had a bottle of tequila out and started passing the bottle around. I figured what-the-heck, might as well join them – after all, I am in Mexico. The next thing you know, Steve decided that we were going to have a Hawaiian-style Thanksgiving – which meant that we were going to have both Turkey and Pig. The problem was that we had absolutely none of the items necessary to cook a pig, Hawaiian style - and we were in Baja – not Hawaii. Nevertheless, Steve was certain that we could find everything we needed nearby in Rosarito Beach. Paul and I merrily agreed to join Steve in his quest to get everything that we needed to cook that pig – Hiccup. Thus started our incredible scavenger hunt.

Basically, we needed: a small pig, banana leaves (to wrap around the pig and seal in the juices), burlap (to go around the banana leaves), chicken wire (to wrap around the burlap), firewood (no problem), and small, round rocks (thousands on the beach) that were heated up in a fire and placed all around the pig, which was placed in a hole that we had to dig somewhere.

Steve spoke Spanish pretty well and so we set off in his truck to Rosarito Beach. We first went to the Rosarito Beach hotel, which is very famous. We told the clerk at the front desk what we were doing and he gave us some leads on where we might find what we needed. The only items that he wasn’t sure about were the pig and the banana leaves. While we were at the hotel, Steve bought us Carta Blanca beers and shots of tequila. We were lucky and found the chicken wire and burlap at a hardware store in town. But no luck on the pig and banana leaves.

We ended up driving all the way from Rosarito Beach to Ensenada – stopping at what seemed like every bar in between - Calafia, Puerto Nuevo, La Fonda – drinking beers and tequila. A bartender at Hussongs Cantina in Ensenada finally pointed us in the direction of a farmer outside of town. After arriving at his farm, selecting a pig and haggling over price, we finally came to an agreement. We waited outside by our truck while the farmer “prepared” the pig for us – and yes, you guessed it – drinking beers and tequila. And wouldn’t you know it, the farmer actually had banana plants growing on his land. We again negotiated a price for the banana leaves and came to an agreement. I can only imagine what that farmer thought about us – those “loco gringos!”.

We somehow managed to get back to Steve’s house by dinner time – we were obviously pretty looped by then. But we were just getting started and time was running out. After woofing down some tacos and burritos, we discussed our next step. We needed to dig a hole someplace for the pig. We decided that the logical place to do that was down on the beach. So we grabbed all our items, including a shovel and pick, and climbed down the stairs to the beach. We dug a pit in the beach sand and started a bonfire. Then we collected rocks and threw them in the fire – which was a mistake. Never throw cold rocks into a blazing fire because they can, and do explode. Hmmm, what to do? We decided to start a new fire –this time placing the rocks underneath the wood first, so that they would gradually heat up. This worked fine. However, we forgot one crucial factor with our plan – the tide.

We, or actually Steve, had forgotten about the fact that the beach was almost completely covered by the ocean at high tide. Our fire was soon out. Hmmm, what to do? It just so happened that there was a “shelf” carved into the soft sandstone cliff about 12 feet up from the beach, by the stairs. So we got the pick and started carving out a pit hole in the sandstone. Fortunately, we had beer and tequila to help us with our task. By midnight, we had carved out our pit, had our bonfire going again and had our rocks heating up. We placed the hot rocks in the pit, the banana leaf, burlap, chicken-wrapped pig on top of that, more rocks and then shoveled beach sand on top of the pig - we then placed a Mexican blanket on top of the sand to try and keep as much heat in as possible. We were working solely on our belief that the instructions in the Luau book were fool-proof and that we had accomplished our tasks perfectly. If we had done everything right, the pig would be fully slow-cooked in 8 hours. It was now 2 in the morning. I don’t know how we did it, but we managed to stay up all night long next to the pig, just in case wild coyotes (or locals) decided to wander by – drinking beer and tequila. At some point, I passed out – and woke up at dawn on Thanksgiving morning – about as hung-over as I have ever been in my life.

After we all had showered and changed clothes, we pulled the pig out of the pit sharply at 10am, desperately hoping that it was finished cooking. We peeled off a corner of the pig “blanket” and sliced off some of the meat – it was incredible – tender and moist, with an enticing aroma that reminded me of Hawaii – must have been the banana leaves. We had done it!

Thanksgiving dinner was due to be served at noon and guests were already arriving. Steve had contracted to have workers from the Rosarito Beach hotel set up and serve all the food – and he had also arranged for Mariachis to play. The chef did a great job of preparing the pig – although the way he prepared it was very similar to Carnitas actually. Who cared though – the pig represented the fruits of our hard, drunken labor.

The day was like a dream – beautiful weather – overlooking the ocean – with the Mariachis playing the Macarena (yes, we all danced to it) – and of course, drinking Mexican beer and tequila. A most unforgettable Thanksgiving in Mexico.

- Rick Gurkin

Candy Coated Carrots

Candy Coated Carrots

This recipe has been around for 4 generations. You can serve this instead of candied yams if you have a hankerin'.

• 4 tablespoons butter or margarine
• 4 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/4 cup tabasco pepper sauce
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• 6-8 carrots, sliced and cooked

Place butter and brown sugar in a saucepan over medium heat, stir until combined. Add tabasco and salt; mix well; add lemon juice. Remove from heat. Add hot, drained carrots and toss gently until coated evenly. 

Serves 4.

Polka-Dot Pumpkin Pie

Polka-Dot Pumpkin Pie

This is a real delicious and easy to make pumpkin pie that will go great with Thanksgiving dinner.

• 1 can (15 oz) pumpkin puree
• 1 teaspoon allspice
• 2 eggs, well beaten
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1 cup brown sugar, packed
• pinch salt
• 1 small can (5 oz) evaporated milk
• ½ cup raisins
• 1 9-inch pie shell

Mix the pumpkin, eggs, sugar, evaporated milk, and spices together, blending well. Put into the pie shell and scatter the raisins evenly over the top. Bake on the middle rack of 350 degree oven for 40 minutes or until set.

Southern Pecan Pie

Southern Pecan Pie

We were fortunate to have a pecan (pronounced "PEE can" in the south) grove in our backyard. As a boy, I would fill up so many paper grocery bags of pecans in the Fall, that we would have to stack them in the utility room. We had pecans to eat throughout the Winter. You are gonna love this classic, southern pecan pie recipe - easy to make and looks real pretty too!

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons white sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup butter, chilled and diced
• 1 egg yolk
• 3 tablespoons ice water
• 1 1/2 cups pecan halves
• 3 eggs
• 1 cup light corn syrup
• 3/4 cup white sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons milk
• 3 tablespoons butter, melted
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a large bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups flour, 3 tablespoons sugar and salt. Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Mix yolk with water and stir in until mixture forms a ball. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour or overnight. Roll out and place in a 9 inch pie plate.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Place pecans in the bottom of pie crust. In a large bowl, Stir together 3/4 cup of sugar and flour. Mix in the eggs, corn syrup, milk, melted butter and vanilla. Blend well and pour over pecans in crust.
Bake in the preheated oven for 10 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350 degrees and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until golden brown and filling is set.

Biscuits

Biscuits

This is an old Southern recipe that can be traced back to the Civil War. Peggy Gurkin was originally born in Bell Island, Newfoundland - married a southern man (Bob Gurkin), moved to North Carolina, and having never made a biscuit in her life, used this recipe to make the best biscuits that anyone has ever tasted! Peggy passed away a few years ago - God rest her soul. Biscuits and gravy are always served at Thanksgiving.

• 2 cups self-rising flour
• ½ cup shortening
• 3/4 cup whole milk (you can substitute buttermilk for whole milk – add ¼ teaspoon baking soda when making buttermilk biscuits)

Heat oven to 450 degrees. Lightly spoon flour into measuring cup; level off. Cut shortening into the flour with a fork until consistency of coarse meal. Add milk all at once; stir with fork just until a soft dough forms. Turn dough onto lightly floured surface; sprinkle dough lightly with flour. Knead gently 10 times or until no longer sticky. Roll out dough to ½ inch thickness; cut with 2 inch floured biscuit cutter. Place biscuits on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake at 450 degrees for 8 to 12 mins or until golden brown. 

Makes 12 biscuits.

Okra and Tomatoes

Okra and Tomatoes

If fresh vegetables are not available you can substitute a 10 oz package of frozen okra and a 14-½ oz can of tomatoes.

• 2 cups ½-inch pieces of fresh okra
• ½ stick margarine
• ½ cup water
• Salt to taste
• 3 cups diced fresh tomatoes

Place the okra in a pot with the water and let come to a boil. Add the tomatoes, butter, and salt to the okra, stirring to mix well. Simmer for 12 to 15 minutes. If you use canned tomatoes, cut them up before adding to the pot and add the juice along with the tomatoes. Add the okra and the butter but not the salt (canned tomatoes have enough salt). Cook over medium heat for 10-12 minutes. 

Serves 4-6.

Corn Casserole

Corn Casserole

This is a delicious side dish that everyone will enjoy at Thanksgiving.

• ½ cup margarine
• 2 eggs, slightly beaten
• 1 (17 oz) cream corn
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1 (17 oz) corn Niblets
• 1 cup grated cheddar cheese
• 1 (8-1/2 oz) box corn muffin mix

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt margarine in a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. After margarine is melted, add both corns (including liquid), bread mix and eggs. Mix gently with a fork. Drop sour cream by spoonfuls in different areas. Using a knife, marbleize the sour cream. Sprinkle cheddar cheese on top. Bake for 45 minutes or until golden brown.

Mashed Potatoes

Mashed Potatoes

What would Thanksgiving be without mashed potatoes? Don't forget the gravy!

• 2 lbs white potatoes
• 3/4 cup milk (maybe less)
• 3/4 stick margarine
• Salt to taste

Wash and peel the potatoes, then cut into quarters. Put the potatoes into a pot, cover with water and boil until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain. Add the butter and mash the potatoes well, using a potato masher. With a wire wisk or electric mixer, add the milk, a little at a time, until the potatoes are as soft as you like. 

Serves 6 to 8.

Old Fashioned Stuffed Turkey

Old Fashioned Stuffed Turkey

Mom used to make a wonderful stuffed Thanksgiving turkey with delicious moist dressing inside. My mouth still waters just thinking about it!

• 1 (14 pound - serves 12) turkey
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 2 celery ribs, chopped
• 1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced
• 1/2 cup butter
• 1 (14.5 ounce) can chicken broth
• 1/3 cup minced fresh parsley
• 2 teaspoons rubbed sage
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon poultry seasoning
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• 12 cups unseasoned stuffing cubes (or use your own bread cubes)
• Warm water
• 1 cube melted butter

In a large skillet, saute the onions, celery and mushrooms in butter until tender. Add broth and seasonings; mix well. Place bread cubes in a large bowl; add mushroom mixture and toss to coat. Stir in enough warm water to reach desired moistness.

Just before baking, loosely stuff turkey. Place any remaining stuffing in a greased baking dish; cover and refrigerate until ready to bake. Skewer turkey openings; tie drumsticks together with kitchen string. Place breast side up on a rack in a roasting pan. Brush with melted butter.

Bake turkey, uncovered, at 325 degrees for 3-3/4 to 4-1/2 hours or until a meat thermometer reads 180 for the turkey and 165 for the stuffing, basting occasionally with pan drippings. (Cover loosely with foil if turkey browns too quickly.)

Bake additional stuffing, covered, for 30-40 minutes. Uncover; bake 10 minutes longer or until lightly browned. Cover turkey with foil and let stand for 20 minutes before removing stuffing and carving. If desired, thicken pan drippings for gravy. Makes 12 servings (10 cups stuffing).

Thanksgiving and Christmas 2009

Growing up as a kid, I used to love the holiday season. We didn't have a whole lot of money, but from Thanksgiving through the New Year, my Mom would go to great lengths to try and make us happy with food, decorations and music. I can still hear Mom's favorite Country Christmas albums - Brenda Lee, Elvis, and Jim Reeves to name a few. There seemed to be something different cooking each day and I would look forward to the scents from the kitchen when I walked in the door of our house after a day at school.

The postings for November and December will be focused on the types of foods we used to eat at our house during the holidays. I'm not going to list them all, but I'll try and post a few ones that stand out the most in my mind - with a variety of main dishes and desserts too. Heck, there's even a recipe for snow cream that my Mom used to love to make after the first snow of the season. Hope you like them as much as we did then, and do now.

-Rick Gurkin